After the first two installments of Colootola Kebab Walk (Abdul Hamid’s Khiri & Gurda Kebab and Dilshad Ahmed’s Kakori Malai Kebab), I thought I won’t be continuing with the series as the third shop is a very well known one, which got lot of media attractions in the past few years. So instead of writing about it one more time, I can write about other places. But, after much thinking, I decided to go with it, and write what I personally think about this famous place.
Like the first one, this shop is also a very old one. When I used to visit this place during my college days it was a shabby, hole in the wall stall. It is still there at the same place. Still a hole in the wall. But they have renovated the place a lot. From bright tiles to big sign boards, the stall have changed a lot and looks a lot brighter these days.
If you are coming from the north via Chittaranjan Avenue / Central Avenue, after crossing MG Road, keep moving towards Esplanade. You will cross Md. Ali Park on you left and the Nakhoda Masjid / Zakaria Street gate on your right. Keep looking for a shop called KR Lynch on your right. When you spot it, take right to enter the road just before it. Walk past the first right turn (you will see Bombay sweets and Islamia Hotel here) and take the left after that. This is Phears Lane. Go past the famous Haji Alauddin Sweet shop on your right and keep walking till you reach a small hole in the wall stall selling kebabs. The board fixed on top with Adams Kebab written on it will assure you that you have finally reached.
Those coming from the south, after reaching the Rana Pratap Statue / Central bus stop on Chittaranjan Avenue, take the road to your right, if you are facing the statue. Keep walking till you reach the second lane to your right. This is the southern end of Phears Lane. Enter it and keep walking until you reach the place mentioned earlier to your left.
On most days you will find the current proprietor Md. Salauddin at the helm, preparing the kebabs and grilling them. They offer only two varieties of beef kebabs. The famous suta / sutli / suti and the boti kebabs. While the first is priced at Rs. 25, the later comes at Rs. 30 / stick. Now, let us first see why these suta kebabs are so famous. They are basically sheekh kebabs, but here, due to high proportion of meat and under use of binders, the keema remains so soft, that a thread needs to be wrapped over it, to prevent it from falling while being grilled. After the kebab is done, the thread is removed and the crumbled meat served on a paper plate along with chopped onions, chillis and a wedge of lemon.
The kebab here is not very spicy. It is light and crumbly. Although I used to like it earlier, of late their taste have gone Southwards. Now my tongue relish neither the spices, nor the meat. It fails to deliver the flavours a kebab should. There are better places around nowadays to try this unique dish. I wish to write about one of them next in this series.
Though the famed Suta Kebab is not that good of late, the boti kebab, which most never try here, is surprisingly good. Don’t know why they wrap the string around this one too (maybe that is their signature style), but the taste is definitely not the same. It is spicier and you could feel the meat well, which is soft and juicy too. It’s sad that you will have to wait longer if you order the boti, as they keep making the sutis. But believe me it is worth the wait.
I seriously hope this iconic place regains its glory of serving the best Suta Kebab in the city. But till then visit them for the botis. I am sure you won’t be disappointed.