Sufia
Everyone, who knows this city, will agree that Calcutta winters have shrunk a lot. Its no more a November to February affair with early morning fog, bright jackets and endless beef. But some places continue to show their loyalty to these four months. Winter for them is November to February, winter for them are the early mornings and winter for them is the Nihari!
For those, who do not know what Nihari is and have not already started typing it at Google, it is a beef soup which is traditionally cooked overnight and is very rich. The long cooking time results in extremely soft and flavorful meat.
If you have the power to leave your bed early (read really early) and start the day with a rich and smooth breakfast, you must try the Nihari at Sufia. Located opposite the Nakhoda Masjid, this place is famous for its Haleem, breakfast and the winter special Nihari. But you must arrive early to avoid disappointment.The place starts taking orders at 4AM and the Nihari gets sold out anywhere between 6 – 8. The main rush starts around 6:45 / 7 so its always better to go before that.
Puris being made at Sufia
Nihari Handi
If you can reach early, it wont be an issue, but once the rush starts, getting a seat is difficult. Looking for someone who is nearly done with his breakfast and standing beside him is the common practice here. Once you get the seat, (each table seats four to six and you will have to share it with strangers) order a plate of Nihari and puris or tandoori rotis to accompany it. Puris are the favourites during breakfast, but I personally prefer the tandoori rotis. I think the rotis here are one of the best in Calcutta and far better than what most of the big restaurants serve. Soft, fluffy and not dry they are just perfect to go with the spicy yet smooth Nihari.
Nihari
Meat at its softest best
We often use ‘melt in your mouth’ soft to describe well cooked meat. But the Nihari beef at Sufia is the perfect example of meat that actually melts in your mouth. Add some chopped coriander, chillies and the juice of the lemon served along with it, to the rich yet smooth soup, and enjoy the heavenly taste, which will force you to return to Sufia again and again.
Lemon wedges and chopped coriander, chillies
Price
Nihari – 90/-
Tandoori Roti – 5/-
Puri – 3/-
Warning
If you take hygiene seriously Sufia is not recommended. The earlier you reach the cleaner will be the place.
Direction
If you are coming from South, after Esplanade take Bentinck Street which will change its name to Rabindra Sarani and after crossing Podder Court and Tiretta Bazar, Nakhoda Masjid will be on the right. Enter the lane before the mosque. Alternatively, you can take the Chittaranjan Avenue / Central Avenue and take the lane to the left just before Md. Ali Park. This lane will meet Rabindra Sarani / Chitpore and Sufiya is just a few meters before that on the left hand.
In case like me you are coming from North, using Central Avenue, take right from M.G. Road / Harrison Road crossing. Reaching the Rabindra Sarani / Chitpore crossing take left. The mosque will be on the left hand side and enter the lane after Nakhoda Masjid.
Address
2, Zakaria Street,
Opposite Nakhoda Mosque,
Calcutta – 700 073
Very nicely written post. I felt like going and having it right now.
Very interesting and I would definitely try it. We have a traditional beef soup as well in the Azores, not as rich though. The meat is slowly cooked in a broth seasoned with salt, cinnamon, cumin powder and mint leaves. Then the broth and meat is poured over a day old slice of bread.
This does sound like the perfect winter dish. I love throwing meat in a Dutch oven and slow-cooking to tenderize the meat and mesh the flavors. I think Nihari would be worth the early rise for this precise reason.
Very interesting! Thanks for the detailed directions. Always good to know where to go in a new city for authentic dining!
The Nihari looks and sounds absolutely delicious! We’re not used to having food like that for breakfast in England, but it sounds like a fantastic treat on a cold winter morning in Calcutta 🙂
I’m not a big fan of beef, but if I did eat beef then I would try this. It actually looks pretty good.
This is very different from my usual winter breakfast but it must be a great winter warmer if it sells out that quick! Obviously worth getting out of bed for 🙂
Yay, that’s a very big cooking ware. I think the food looks good, hot soup is perfect for cold weather
This looks like a really great power breakfast. It looks so tasty.
OMG that is so delicious, Wish I can be there. I want one!
OMG~~~I’m hungry just by looking at the food!!!!!!!!
More than tasting the food, I think I will enjoy watching them cook.
I’m not a big fan of winter, but maybe I’d like the season better if I could eat Nihari in the morning. It looks and sounds delicious.
Seriously – that looks like the best and most tender beef ever! YUM!
God! If I eat all that for breakfast I can’t imagine what the lunch would be! Looks very delicious though!
Well Im a vegetarian but I do admire a well cooked traditional meal.
Your articles always make me hungry. I’ve never been to Calcutta so not sure I could even pronounce half the menu. Lol I usually stick with curries & vindaloo. Some friends are trying to plan a trip your way in the spring and if it happens, I’ll have to go through your arsenal of articles for things & places to try. I’m NOT worried about hygiene. Lol
Wow, that definitely doesn’t look like you typical American breakfast! Haha I always like to try new foods 😉
Definitely more interesting than Italian cappuccino or espresso and cornetto!
It sounds delicious! I will take two servings please!
How early are we talking about? I’m an early morning riser but I’m not sure about how early you mean… haha! This meal looks amazing! Soft meat is always amazing!
Sounds good.. except for you hygiene warning! lol
I’ve never been there but it sure quite looks interesting. I don’t think I’m a fan of the food but I’m up for some try! They look yummy though.
Call me old fashion but I am not sure I could have a dish like that so early in the morning. But I am sure it would be a great way to experience the locals and local food at that time of the morning. Great write up – will keep this in my mind for when I visit 🙂
The food looks comforting especially at colder months.
I’m not a beef eater, but that does look like a nice warming breakfast.
I enjoyed you post.Well written and describes.Good job.
I would love to try this one , the meat looks really soft, I’m sure it will not get between my teeth, as this is my dilemna when eating meat
It would be something new to experience the winter months of Calcutta and at the same time try their native dishes.
Fascinating – and I think my daughter in particular would love to try it!
This is definitely not what I’m used to for breakfast, but it certainly looks delicious! Calcutta is on our list to visit! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thats looks a cool place to try some local food
Really liked going through this one! Super droolicious!
This sounds really, really tasty! I’m not used to eating beef and chilis for breakfast, but I’d make an exception for this.
Wow, breakfast there is so different from what we have here in Manila. I’m so interested to discover what those taste like!
This post is making me hungry
My mouth is watering, that Nihari looks delicious!
I don´t think anyone can take hygiene seriously in India if you wanna eat cheap and well. Everything looks so delicious, i would definitely go for it, my kind of place!
Nice, I’m sure I’ll try this at some point!
Indian food is best.Thats one thing I find the most difficult after a month of traveling outside home.the indian food even if it’s just plain chilies.haha
Ooooh I miss breakfasts in Calcutta! One of my favorite Indian dishes and lovely people too
Oh my god you just made me so hungry! Indian food is amazing! I’ll definitely check out your blog if I’m going to India any time soon!
Looks like it’s totally worth waking up early for! Yum!!
Beef soup for breakfast at 6am? Wow, very different from what I’m used to but it sounds delicious so I’d give it a try. 🙂
yum. soup for breakfast, i like that concept. the meat looks extraordinarily tender.
What an interesting experience it would be to check out the food at this restaurant. I can’t imagine someone hovering over my table until I’m finished eating, just to have my seat, but sounds like that’s the norm there. Calcutta winter with early morning fog and a special place to warm up with some soup – sounds amazing!
Oh wow the food looked delicious. They are far different from the local cuisines we have here but I do love trying out and experimenting with all kinds of food from different places. The meat indeed looks tender and very high quality. I think each dish will result to total satisfaction.
Ok…I’m Canadian so this looks very exotic to me but oh so delicious. I loved your blog post because I felt like I was almost there. I would live to try this native winter dish… can you send me some? Kidding…
I love trying new foods and this article really has introduced me to a whole new genre. I would have to go visit a place like this with people who knew what to order. Thanks for the great review.
That Nihari dish looks very exotic, which means it’s authentically Indian haha! I love trying out new things, and I hope something like that gets served here too. Looking forward to my India trip next year.
Oh my that soup looks and sounds really delicious! Here in the US it is not the tradition to eat beef for breakfast, but I think I would really enjoy that for a lunch or dinner meal or even a midnight snack. I will have to look for a restaurant here in the states that serve it. I love trying new foods!
Wow, meat that melts in your mouth, that is a great description. That place looks amazing, I love street food. Reminds me a bit of the beef cilantro soy sauce dish my mom makes.
Back home we too have a similar dish which requires to cook overnight and i do enjoy it once it’s all done up and ready to eat. In England we have a similar version we do in a slow cooker for 2-3 nights straight and lord its painful to watch and wait for it to get ready. This post so much reminded me of home in Zambia that I want to make this similar dish, thanks for sharing.
All of the dishes look very warm and inviting for anyone weathering the colder months. I love lemon juice on salad as well..its so simple but packs so much flavor over greens.Thanks for sharing, I’m a bit hungry now! 🙂
Every single dish in your pictures looks AMAZING! So hungry over here. Complete comfort food. The beef looks like it’s so tender. And that giant pot of stew is such an amazing picture. Ao many great flavors. You are so lucky to have tried it all.